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Need Help with my 802A ….

RockyP

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Louisiana
The thermal breaker on the side of the GFCI unit.
Looking at those pictures the machine is making power and it appears that the circuit interrupt light is on, so the K1 contactor should be closed, or is that an illusion caused by the camera?
Where is the main AC switch on the back wall inside the control panel set? is it on 120/240v?
Yea the the lights on and it is closed!! Still no power… and yea that’s what I have it set on
 

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kloppk

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In your pics it doesn't show the AC voltmeter. Can you take a picture of it with the set running? Be sure the AM-VM switch position is in the picture too.

Here's the wiring for the GFCI & Outlet. The item marked CB3 is the GFCI and J1 in the outlet.
The GFCI get's it's input power from Terminal Block TB5 terminals 5 & 6.
1761823721610.png
 
Last edited:

RockyP

Member
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Location
Louisiana
In your pics it doesn't show the AC voltmeter. Can you take a picture of it with the set running? Be sure the AM-VM switch position is in the picture too.

Here's the wiring for the GFCI & Outlet. The item marked CB3 is the GFCI and J1 in the outlet.
The GFCI get's it's input power from Terminal Block TB5 terminals 5 & 6.
View attachment 956684
Grand Rising!! Thanks a million and here’s the picture of with the ac voltage on it
 

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kloppk

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Does normal voltage register on the Voltmeter while the set is running AND you have S1 in the START position?
 

kloppk

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OK, it's making voltage with S1 in START. That's a promising sign.
Assuming the big fuse is good that generally indicates the AC Voltage Regulator has failed.
You should now perform the AC Voltage Regulator tests in the -24 TM and report back your finding for each measurement.

1761840768943.png

1761840800513.png
 

RockyP

Member
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Location
Louisiana
OK, it's making voltage with S1 in START. That's a promising sign.
Assuming the big fuse is good that generally indicates the AC Voltage Regulator has failed.
You should now perform the AC Voltage Regulator tests in the -24 TM and report back your finding for each measurement.

View attachment 956693

View attachment 956694
Big Fuse?? Ok and about to run the test will report back momentarily… Thanks again
 

kloppk

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Could be corroded contacts in the P4/J4 connectors.
It's a small 4 pin round connector connected to the bottom of the "floor" under the control cube. It carries the Quad Winding power to the AC Voltage Regulator and power from the AC Voltage Regulator to the gen heads static exciter.

1761854177209.png
 

RockyP

Member
64
40
18
Location
Louisiana
Could be corroded contacts in the P4/J4 connectors.
It's a small 4 pin round connector connected to the bottom of the "floor" under the control cube. It carries the Quad Winding power to the AC Voltage Regulator and power from the AC Voltage Regulator to the gen heads static exciter.

View attachment 956713
Well I got to look at the J5 wires again and look what I found.. I don’t know how I missed this!! Could this b the problem? Its pressed up against the metal plate down there.
 

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Guyfang

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Tape is one way to fix it, but there are other ways that are better. They require a bit more work. However you fix it, when you are done, you need to make sure the wires do not rub on the metal again. You can wrap the wire harness at the point where it rests on the metal. I used to keep a bag of bicycle inner tube among my tools. I would cut a strip off, wrap it around the wire harness. Secure it with several wire ties and it should last longer that your life expectancy. THEN, you need to start looking for other places where the wire harness rubs on metal. Fix every place not, in the light, then at 02:00 on a rainy night.
 
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