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What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

KKroger

KKroger

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Oh! One other thing!
Noticed some coolant seepage from the Water Outlet causing some appearance of a leak on the front of the engine under the stat housing. Got a new Stat and Gasket and put that in but when I disassembled it there were two gaskets on it one was incomplete had a missing section the other was complete. so someone half assed the install. I cleaned it all up and reassembled it. No leakage now.
 
Cybul

Cybul

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Yesterday and today I was replacing the worm gear, which was causing my speedometer to stop working. I also replaced the shaft seal. It was a hell of a job disassembling the TC components; the silicone held like a weld. But the speedometer finally works.
 

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KKroger

KKroger

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Swapped out the Idler Arm on the 1097R1...
Tools Used.
11/16 Long Arm Combo Wrench
5/8 Deep Impact Socket on 3/8 inpact...
24mm wrench to remove castle nut
Klein Dikes for Cotter work More on this in a minute...
Lisle Ball Joint Separator kit.
Air Hammer Long Barrel...
26mm wrench for the NEW Castle Nut to go back...
Kleins again for Cotter...
Grease Gun.

10 Minutes from Shutdown to R&R and Test drive.

OK so removing the old was mostly easy. Remove nuts on through bolts on frame.
Straighten Cotter pin leg that was bent to set the cotter... Remove Cotter... Well No it would not budge, tried a couple things and it wasn't having it so the 24mm Long arm Combo Wrench and sheared it off... once the nut was off it fell right out. Oh Well.
1767206314171.png
Used the Medium Fork in the 401 Air Hammer shank long barrel Air Hammer quick BZZ it was loose.
1767206638346.pngreplace part with new. had to use a wrench to line up the shaft with the frame bolts. 13mm I believe that was and a bit of a twist
reinsert bolts, washers, Nuts Buzz Tight with the 3/8 Impact...
Castle Nut was already on by this point but needed tightened so 26mm for NEW nut...
tighten tighten tighter, turn to align cotter pin bore.
Install Cotter, Apply some Grease Gun Love

All Good.. took a test drive... handles like a HMMWV...

The old one didn't have much over 3/4" of end play... probably good for a while more.. :D
 
O

osteo16

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montaillou said:
Yokohama GEOLANDAR MT G003 all_ Season Radial Tire-37X12.50R17 on Method Race Wheels 105 Beadlock Matte Black 17x8.5" 8x6.5", 0mm offset 4.75" Backspace.

I went civilian wheels/tires for the convenience, plus even with 8 tires none had much tread.
Click to expand...
PICTURES !!! Please
 
KKroger

KKroger

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The Beginnings of AUX Heat... I have not pulled the plastic off the foam just yet in this photo. Ideally in the future when weather permits I will carefully remove my aluminum brackets for the RedDot and paint them 686 Tan, and recoat the plywood. Still need to get some Hose insulation sleeve... and run the long hoses, the control valve will be a manual valve like OE, with a cable that will come down near the brake handle where I currently have a blank cannon plug that went to an unknown thing up on top of the truck over the passenger seat. All I can tell you is there are 3 5/16 bolts and a LARGE hole... about 7/8 inch. My heater hoses pierce the floor one rib to the side of the AC hoses and have bulkhead fittings right above the drivers side frame rail 90 degrees angling in then the hoses will run forward along the frame being fastened in along there. Tee fittings in the existing heater lines. I'll have to engrave a plate for the control cable and fan switch.

610277098_1775382626485745_6221676107631537711_n.jpg

This Heat Unit 20k BTU Painted 383 Green and the vents blackened.


1768155606609.png

Made a plate for the heater control cable... Just a black anodized business card laser etched...
Not EXACTLY what I want but close enough for now gotta get the long hoses run and Teed into the heater circuit. Spent two hours putting fire braid on them mainly to keep the heat IN not keep them from the heat.

a83b6b0b-2b8d-4f73-82eb-9d3dc42c0721.jpg
 

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Mainsail

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Drove out to Tacoma Screw after work and picked up some longer bolts - the bumper bolts were too short to get at least three threads past the locknut. New locknuts as well.

Stopped at home depot and bought a 18" length of pre-cut 1/2" black iron pipe to hold me over until I can find a wrench.

Came home and swapped the bolts out one at a time. Then marked and drilled the pipe. Dug in my stash and found two matching pins the exact size I needed to hold the pipe in the wrench holder loops. Found a third pin for the swing-out preventing function and put it on the lanyard that was there. I just need to make a lanyard for the two pins.

STCInst2.jpg
 
Mogman

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I went and picked up my latest acquisition today, a maint. shelter, sat in front of the gate until 8 am and became suspicious when no body showed up, not even any customers, called the guy and yes they had moved, I had arrived before light and where I parked a large building blocked the view of the now missing "stuff" So of course by the time I got to the new location I was back in line a ways :(
The idea was to take my little trailer and the ol ladies 1/2 ton but last night as I prepared I found a bubble on the side of her right front tire, had I known this earlier I would have prepped my larger goose neck trailer that I normally pull behind the one ton.
So I had to do a little jury rigging because the shelter is wider than the rails on the low boy. but it was stable and did not give me any trouble on the way home, That thing cost over 72K new but of course it was full of equipment and tools.
Check out that Blue Texas sky we had today! was another beautiful day albeit a bit cooler than yesterday.
The wife has me on "Chinese watch" today because I had an episode a week ago about two hours after eating at my favorite place in the world, I got real dizzy, the she said my eyes were tracking to the right then snapping back to center only to start tracking to the right again and my pupils were non responsive, it went away after about an hour, I may be developing an allergy to MSG, boy that would suck and make life allot less fun...:eek:
1.jpg2.jpg
 
TOBASH

TOBASH

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Months ago I loosened up several glow plugs. Now with Eric’s help I’ve replaced 1/3/5/4

Without assistance 8/7 are snapped, with his assistance 6 is stripped and 4 not accessible with human sized hands (and I don’t have a capuchin monkey to assist.)

At 40 degrees she starts up perfectly! No more isssues! She didn’t want to start at low temps before.
In the fall I will look into welding and pulling 6/7/8. 4 will just be untouched unless I pull the engine or pull the body to work on them.

Eric and I teamed up and found two perfect Nissan seats for a total of $99 at a pick-and-pull auto wrecker. Now I’m as comfortable as when in my 1995 H1. Might paint the seats olive drab. For now driver’s side is in and is perfect. Passenger goes in when I relocate my batteries and cut the box down to size and fabricate a seat support. Might repurpose rear seat support from now eliminated rear seats.

Today we will fabricate new steel B-pillars and the Aluminum ones won’t allow for flux-core welding. Plan is to use the factory mounts to tie the b-pillars into the c-pillars and the front windshield. This makes a pseudo roll cage and tightens up the upper body.

IMG_2566.jpeg
IMG_2564.jpeg
 
TOBASH

TOBASH

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And with a little help from my friends at Harbor Freight, new B-pillars are born. Tape on the ends to hold compacted sand for bending.

Tomorrow will cut to size, re-bend where necessary, drill b-pillar holes to fit to frame, and weld at the center to make one large “hoop”.

IMG_2613.jpeg
 
Bulldogger

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Looking good. If I ever get a bigger shop, I want to make tooling to curve soft slant back corners instead of doing them by hand. I figured out how to do it all, but not where :)

If you can find a way to make 2-piece C pillars that can therefore ship more economically, you'll pay for all the rest of your parts and then some. Don't stop at B!

Looking good TOBASH,
Bulldogger

TOBASH said:
And with a little help from my friends at Harbor Freight, new B-pillars are born. Tape on the ends to hold compacted sand for bending.

Tomorrow will cut to size, re-bend where necessary, drill b-pillar holes to fit to frame, and weld at the center to make one large “hoop”.

View attachment 962343
Click to expand...
 
TOBASH

TOBASH

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Bulldogger said:
Looking good. If I ever get a bigger shop, I want to make tooling to curve soft slant back corners instead of doing them by hand. I figured out how to do it all, but not where :)

If you can find a way to make 2-piece C pillars that can therefore ship more economically, you'll pay for all the rest of your parts and then some. Don't stop at B!

Looking good TOBASH,
Bulldogger
Click to expand...
Describe and send me a pm picture of what you need and I’ll figure it out for you.
 
KKroger

KKroger

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Mainsail said:
Drove out to Tacoma Screw after work and picked up some longer bolts - the bumper bolts were too short to get at least three threads past the locknut. New locknuts as well.

Stopped at home depot and bought a 18" length of pre-cut 1/2" black iron pipe to hold me over until I can find a wrench.

Came home and swapped the bolts out one at a time. Then marked and drilled the pipe. Dug in my stash and found two matching pins the exact size I needed to hold the pipe in the wrench holder loops. Found a third pin for the swing-out preventing function and put it on the lanyard that was there. I just need to make a lanyard for the two pins.

View attachment 961849
Click to expand...
Blackdog Customs has wrenches for $65... plus shipping... can find on Ebay for a bit more and from Midwest for a lot more.

Heck here is one for $30.. https://armysurpluswarehouse.com/mi...c8fMFNKibkCHp-Gt4zyYQa1ejJJ3CQHCWJlcaXF3ucXe9
 
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TOBASH

TOBASH

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Retiredwarhorses

Retiredwarhorses

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