New to m211

[jeff gardiner]

Hey there jeff here from washington and i aquired a m211 that i plan on bringing it back up to par. Looking for a REB kit for the auto trans and maybe advice on updated wheel cylinders that will not weep as much from sitting. Truck runs good

 

[NDT]

Looks good! Do you have it apart for paint or do you need parts to put it back together?
If you use silicone brake fluid, the stock wheel cylinders will be fine. You have to be careful with the REB, as I understand it, if you are going 55 mph and someone shifts to 1st, it will do just that. Once you get used to the stock hydramatic, I think you will find it’s ok.

 

[jeff gardiner]

Looks good! Do you have it apart for paint or do you need parts to put it back together?
If you use silicone brake fluid, the stock wheel cylinders will be fine. You have to be careful with the REB, as I understand it, if you are going 55 mph and someone shifts to 1st, it will do just that. Once you get used to the stock hydramatic, I think you will find it’s ok.

Thank you for the tips..i do have a fiberglass full top but would be interested in a folding front windsheild with hard or soft top. I look forward to actually taking it for a drive once i get the brakes up to par

 

[jeff gardiner]

Thank you for the tips..i do have a fiberglass full top but would be interested in a folding front windsheild with hard or soft top. I look forward to actually taking it for a drive once i get the brakes up to par

I plan on hopefully painting it back to original color..hopefully this winter

 

[rustystud]

I would stay away from any REB kit. The stock HydraMatic works just fine. If you need any parts or advice on your 303M HydraMatic let me know.

 

[jeff gardiner]

Thanks rusty. I might just do that..transmissions can be a bit intimidating..not my strong suit

 

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[jeff gardiner]

Hey there,
My name is Jeff Gardiner and i have heard you are the man to ask about my m211 auto trans. I am new to this truck. I checked the dipstick in the floor that i assume is for the trans and it was milky white. Obviously i will change the fluid but wanna find where the contamination occured so i can fix problem.. you have any tips or advice? Thanks for any help
Jeff

 

[NDT]

Could be years of condensation or it could be the trans cooler leaking antifreeze/water into the oil. Suggest you pull the pan and pressure test the heat exchanger.

 

[jeff gardiner]

Also do you have a recomendation on trans fluid to refill as there are many opinions on what to use

 

[NDT]

Can of worms question, that has been debated here forever, either Dexron ATF or engine oil per the lube order.

 

[jeff gardiner]

Will atf hurt any of seals if they are oem...would i be better off with oil option?

 

[msgjd]

I would stay away from any REB kit.

Do you mean keep them away of just the hydramatics ? Or are you also saying stay away from putting rebs in M34, M35, M49C etc too?

 

[NDT]

Will atf hurt any of seals if they are oem...would i be better off with oil option?

ATF is simply 10 wt engine oil with special additives. My GMC has ATF in it since the 1970,s. No issues.

 

[G744]

In the '50's, when the G749 trucks were front-line the military spec'd 10W rather than ATF as it was already in the system. Auto transmissions were not as popular then. Not that it was better, as they found out about running Detroit 2-cycles with OE30 in the crankcase rather than straight 40 DELO. Lotsa' motors coked up and died from that.

G744

 

[rustystud]

It's water from the engine. Sad to say your clutch plates might be toast, and you might have a lot of rust in the transmission. The HydraMatic transmission uses engine coolant to cool it. They have a tendency to run hot. VERY HOT at times. So the engineers decided to use a simple method of heat transfer using the engines coolant system. Works great until it doesn't. Usually the Oil pan cracks allowing the coolant to mix with the transmission oil.
Now if your lucky, the water in your transmission came from someone trying to "ford" your truck across some water. Lucky because your oil pan will be intact. Once they are cracked there is nothing you can do but toss them. Last year alone I tossed 4 away. Makes you kind'a sick to do so, but there it is.
So the first thing you need to do is drop your oil pan and check for cracks. Look back on my rebuild and see where I show you what to look for.
Second, if the oil pan is OK, then reinstall it and add new fluid and run it a short distance. Then drain out the oil and refill it with new oil again. I know this is expensive, but you need to clean out the gunk the water makes and any rust that is loose on the parts. Especially needle bearings.
Then if all is OK, go and enjoy your truck !

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[rustystud]

Can of worms question, that has been debated here forever, either Dexron ATF or engine oil per the lube order.

Actually I posted what GMC said in there HydraMatic division about transmission. Only use ATF .
We know why the military used it, doesn't make it right though.
Also ATF is more than just 10W oil with additives. The whole "coefficient of friction" is totally different than regular oil. Plus all the additives !

 

[Guyfang]

Thanks Greg. You know what for!

 

[rustystud]

Thanks Greg. You know what for!

No problem. We all just need to work together. Makes life easier for everyone.

 

[jeff gardiner]

It's water from the engine. Sad to say your clutch plates might be toast, and you might have a lot of rust in the transmission. The HydraMatic transmission uses engine coolant to cool it. They have a tendency to run hot. VERY HOT at times. So the engineers decided to use a simple method of heat transfer using the engines coolant system. Works great until it doesn't. Usually the Oil pan cracks allowing the coolant to mix with the transmission oil.
Now if your lucky, the water in your transmission came from someone trying to "ford" your truck across some water. Lucky because your oil pan will be intact. Once they are cracked there is nothing you can do but toss them. Last year alone I tossed 4 away. Makes you kind'a sick to do so, but there it is.
So the first thing you need to do is drop your oil pan and check for cracks. Look back on my rebuild and see where I show you what to look for.
Second, if the oil pan is OK, then reinstall it and add new fluid and run it a short distance. Then drain out the oil and refill it with new oil again. I know this is expensive, but you need to clean out the gunk the water makes and any rust that is loose on the parts. Especially needle bearings.
Then if all is OK, go and enjoy your truck !

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I plan on checking the pan out in the next couple weeks...hopefully no cracks..will keep u updated

Thanks jeff